Saturday, July 23, 2011

Ludwigsburg and Kreuzlingen

This week I didn't have too much going on, just some short trips! On Wednesday I went to Ludwigsburg, a suburb of Stuttgart, for my research. Ludwigsburg is home to the Deutsch-Franzoesisch Institut, or German-French Institute. It is a library devoted to the studies of Germany, France, and their relationship--full of books, periodicals, and a press archive. I was told it would be helpful to my research and it definitely was. I saw very clearly why my professors told me it was so important to learn German---if you know German, there are a lot more resources available to you than if you only speak English. Nearly everything in the Institute was written in either French or German. So for the last month I am here, I'm going to work really hard to make my German reading comprehension better before I go home!

Thursday Ulf and I went to Kreuzlingen, the Swiss town that Konstanz borders. After seeing it, I'm really glad I live in Konstanz! The town is not nearly as pretty, or as big, and obviously because it's Switzerland everything is more expensive. In KN a scoop of ice cream never costs more than 80 or 90 euro cents--in Kreuzlingen it was 2 francs and 50 cents for one scoop! Their harbor was nice, though--they had some pretty chairs and a tower you could climb to look out over the lake! I also learned some more about "die Daumen drucken", the German expression for "fingers crossed", that literally means "to press the thumb". Apparently the gesture for it is more like a closed fist, and Germans only cross their fingers when they are lying! haha. Context is very important for things like that, I guess.

I've been listening to some more of my German language course podcasts--they're getting interesting. One of them features an elf (ein cobalt) who honestly sounds exactly like Elmo. Every podcast also includes a "musical interlude" with what I'm pretty sure are only German/Austrian composers! So I guess it's cultural lessons, too.

I keep hearing about how it's really hot at home--well, in Konstanz it's been around 60-65 degrees and rainy most of the last two weeks. To me, perfect summer weather! Hope everyone at home is staying cool in the AC!

Plans for next week: thinking of taking a day trip to Heidelberg and Mannheim on Tuesday since the rain is supposed to stop, and Thursday night Alessia and I leave for our weekend in Berlin!

some German words I've learned recently:
jemanden zur Schnecke machen: literally means "to make someone into a snail". figuratively, means to embarrass or humiliate someone by yelling at them. Learned that one from reading Harry Potter.
ein cobalt: elf or goblin
der Fremde: stranger

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Harry Potter and Seehasenfest

I have now seen Harry Potter 7 part 2 in German and in English! I enjoyed it a lot, even though they left out a lot as usual. Seeing it in German (and going to a German movie theater) was really interesting. German movie theaters have assigned seats, you choose your seat when you buy your ticket. The theater was carpeted (no sticky linoleum floor) and full of big red plush seats. There were even two person seats for couples. I got popcorn, because it's something I miss from America, and got to choose between sweet or salty. I understood almost everything in the previews, but the movie was a bit harder. I would say overall I probably got about half of it. But I did learn a bunch of new words, some of which are below. It helped that I knew the story and one or two of the better-known lines already. It was interesting seeing it in German, though! I'm glad I did. It's weird that something that started being important to me at age eleven is now over. (Thanks Aunt Ro for buying me that first book!)

Beforehand, Thorin and I tried out a cheap Thai restaurant I found, which was delicious, so now I'm completely thrilled. Every place I live needs to have an affordable Thai restaurant nearby.

Saturday I went to Seehasenfest in the nearby town of Friedrichshafen with my friends Alessia and Tobi! Seehasenfest (literally meaning sea hare festival) began after WW2. Friedrichshafen is not on the Swiss border like KN, and was almost totally destroyed in the war, so the city council wanted to do something to get the people's spirits up, especially the kids. So they began holding the fair, and there's a guy dressed as a hare who runs around the whole time. Apparently that originates from the fact that the people who live around Lake Konstanz are referred to as sea hares? All this background info is from Thorin/German Wikipedia.

The fair itself was fun! It made it feel more like summer, although it was definitely a German fair. Everything looks the same as home until you start looking more closely at the food stands, and everyone is selling currywurst! They did have an American specialties stand with corn dogs, though. haha. Tobi drove to the fair from Konstanz because it's impossible to get home late at night in KN. So we took the car ferry to Meersburg, drove to Friedrichshafen, and parked at Tobi's friend's house. We met her and her family later, and they were all so nice! I got to practice some German with her mom while we waited for everyone to go on some of the rides. I did ride the Ferris wheel though :-) It was beautiful--Friedrichshafen is on the other side of the lake from KN, so seeing it from 50 m (about 150-200 ft) in the air was amazing. The big attraction of Saturday night at the fair was the fireworks! They were really nice, kind of made up for missing the 4th of July at home! We got home very late but it was a very fun night :-) The best part was not having to pay admission--it was free for kids under 18 and Tobi and I decided we looked young enough to pretend we didn't speak German and say we were 17, and it worked...multiple times at the various checkpoints we went through...saved 4 euros but damaged my self-esteem haha.

Something else I find funny--I often ask Alessia about Italian words or foods or other things that I know from my family and our traditions--she says it is very amusing because I pronounce everything in dialect (which is how I learned the few words I know) and sometimes she doesn't understand what I mean until I describe it. :-) I was happy to find out that mozzarella in carrozza is a real Italian recipe, as are rice balls!

So, here are some words I learned from watching Harry Potter auf Deutsch!
muttig--brave
der Stab--wand
die schlampe--bitch
tod/tode--dead, death
wirklich--really


German band in the biergarten--loved their outfits :-)
Friedrichshafen and the Bodensee from the Ferris wheel
fireworks!

Tobi, me, and Alessia on the Ferris wheel

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Liechtenstein

So today Thorin and I ventured to Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein. Liechtenstein is a teeny tiny country (61 square miles with a population of 35,000) sandwiched in between Switzerland and Austria. There's almost nothing to see there but hey, it's country #10 for me, and it was only 90 minutes away by train!

So the trip there involved 4 short train rides (on the way, we learned exactly how huge Lake Konstanz/the Bodensee is, because we were following it the whole way) to the Swiss-Liech. border, where we then took a bus through Schaan and Vaduz, the two biggest cities. We stopped in Vaduz (pop. 5,000?), where we got a souvenir passport stamp from the tourist office (major highlight of the trip). Liechtenstein is essentially a principality of Switzerland, so they use Swiss francs and speak German. Since they use Swiss francs (although euros are accepted pretty much everywhere), everything is accordingly expensive. We found a fairly cheap place for lunch and enjoyed the nice weather.

After lunch, we wandered around town, which took all of an hour. Sights include some souvenir stores, the St. Florin Church, the Rathaus (town hall), and the Schloss Vaduz. The Schloss Vaduz is high on a hill overlooking the town, and the Liechtenstein royal family still lives there, so you're not allowed to visit (although the climb looks pretty exhausting, so I'm not sure I'd want to). Liechtenstein is one of the remaining monarchies of Europe. There's not much to see in Liechtenstein, but the tiny town/country does inspire a lot of jokes. Thorin ordered a Liechtenstein Brauhaus beer at lunch. The slogan on the label read "Ein Land. Ein Bier." which translates to "One country. One beer." This led to a lot of jokes like "One country. One....noun.", etc.

The trip home got a little complicated due to limited transportation but we made it back! And while we were waiting for the train in Switzerland I even got Ben & Jerry's. yum. So a short day, and I've definitely been to more interesting places in Europe, but the mountains make Liechtenstein quite picturesque.

So, to finish up this post, some fun German idioms I've learned:
der Löffel abgeben: to give up the spoon (English equivalent=to kick the bucket)
Daumen drücken: to press the thumb (English equivalent=cross your fingers)
Eine Jacke, eine hose: jacket or pants (English equivalent= six in one hand, half a dozen in the other)

me in Liechtenstein!
Schloss Vaduz

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Random photos

Thought I'd share some photos I took this week in my wanderings :-) next update will tell of my adventures in Liechtenstein planned for Monday!



one of my favorite muraled buildings in KN--can't wait to make it to Stein-am-Rhein and see some more before I leave


an accordionist teaching a tourist how to play--I watched them for a few minutes because it was so entertaining


Ulf showed me the inside of the Rathaus (town hall), office of the Burgermeister (mayor)--the courtyard is absolutely beautiful


Burgermeister! I had to laugh remembering Burgermeister Meisterburger from "Santa Claus is Coming to Town"...

Friday, July 1, 2011

4th of July update from your favorite expat

So right now everyone is going crazy over the women's World Cup, which is being played all throughout Germany this month. Germany's team has won its first two games, making for some very excited celebrations in my dorm. The US is also expected to do very well, and are playing today, so go America!

Right after Eric left, it finally started feeling like summer here, unfortunately (I hate hot weather and Europe is not air-conditioned). It hit 90 degrees and up two days in a row. I had no heat in Paris in the winter and I would choose that again over having no AC here when it's 90+. So I went out and bought a fan. The temperature immediately fell 20 degrees. But I'm sure sometime over the next 2 months it will go back up, sadly.

I haven't done too much that's exciting this week...hid from the high temperatures by eating gelati, and been working hard on my German and on my reading. I found some free German podcasts online to help me learn, and I'm trying really hard to work on grammar. The sentence structure and word order is really confusing, it's kind of backwards from English. German also has four grammatical cases which can change the nouns, pronouns, articles, and adjectives, which are driving me insane. But I'm powering through--I'm on page 3 of translating Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, and I will be seeing the movie in German in 2 weeks. I am noticing improvements in how much I understand but I'm still not satisfied--I want to understand more of what goes on around me. I keep being told I have unrealistic expectations, however. Well, I have two more months to improve!

My language partner, Ulf, took me to the Bismarck Turm in Konstanz yesterday (Bismarck Tower). Otto von Bismarck was the chancellor of Germany under Kaiser Wilhelm, and was instrumental in unifying Germany. The tower is on a hill surrounded by a vineyard, which was cool. Apparently there are Bismarck Turm all over Germany, but according to Wikipedia the one in KN is considered important because it's on a border of the newly unified Germany.

Some of my newest German words:
aufgeregt=excited. you can also say ich freue mich auf (I am looking forward to...)
deibisch=the closest English equivalent would be thieving or thievish. funny word.
gleichweis=likewise. I was really proud of myself because I figured out how to spell the word and what it meant on my own! I wished the lady who took my rent money "Gut Wochenende" (good weekend--I have since found out that you are supposed to say "Schönest Wochenende"), and that was what she responded.

This is the first time I'm spending the 4th of July out of the country--I hope everyone at home is having a great holiday weekend! Wish I could come home and have a hot dog haha.

me standing in Germany and Switzerland at the same time!
view of the vineyard and the lake from the Bismarck tower hill
Bismarck Turm

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Eurotrip with Eric!




So I've spent the last two weeks traveling around Europe with Eric, which has been really, really fun! We met in London, then proceeded to Paris and Rome, and he left this morning after spending a few days back in Konstanz with me.

I got to spend the afternoon in Zurich before leaving for London (my flight left from Zurich Airport so early in the morning that I had to spend the night in Zurich to get there on time). Zurich is really a beautiful city! I actually preferred it to Geneva or Interlaken. I didn't see very much--my hostel was in the old town so I spent the afternoon walking around there. But the old town is beautiful. There are two big churches, the Grossmunster and the Fraumunster, facing each other across the lake. Zurich is a big financial center now, apparently, but you wouldn't know it from the old town. So I wandered around for a few hours before having dinner and heading to my room to watch Hannah Montana in German (thought of you, Megan) and go to bed early. I had a taxi waiting at 4:30 am the next morning. My taxi driver didn't speak much English so I got to practice my German! We managed to hold a short conversation, which I was proud of myself for, since it was so early in the morning. I got to the airport (a ridiculous taxi fare later...why is Switzerland so expensive?!) before the ticket counters even opened, and had plenty of time.

So next stop, London! I had about two hours to wait before Eric got in, so I had breakfast, and then I started hearing people talking about flights from the US being delayed because of some bad storms around NY, so I got worried. Luckily Eric's flight was only a few minutes delayed and he zipped through customs and met me on time. We took the tube into London and started off our trip with a double-decker bus tour! We sat on the open top, which was great at first since it was about 70 degrees and sunny. The tour got stuck in traffic and took a little longer than expected, and 4 hours and some rain later, we were pretty cold and wet. But it was really fun to see so much of London right away! We ate dinner that night in a pub that had been there since 1723. Day 2 in London started out in Notting Hill, at the Saturday market on Portobello Road! It's a huuuuge flea market with tons of delicious food and funny stalls. We of course stopped at the travel bookshop featured in the movie, and ate delicious street food for lunch. Then we went to St. Paul's Cathedral, where the admission fee is so high that your "free" audioguide is an iTouch. Both the church and the view from the dome (523 steps later...) were gorgeous, however, although the audioguide was a little too much religious stuff for my taste. We spent the end of the day wandering around Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, one gigantic park in the center of London.

Day 3 began rainy, unfortunately, so the Yeoman Warder tours at the Tower of London were canceled, much to our disappointment--apparently the Yeomen don't like to get wet. But we spent several hours seeing all the exhibits in the tower--Eric really liked the armor one. The last time I was in London was mid-November, so I was shocked at all the crowds for everything. The line to see the Crown Jewels was so long we didn't bother. Then we headed off to the British Museum, since it was still pretty gross and rainy. It was insanely crowded! We started our final day in London by walking through St. James' Park to Buckingham Palace to see the changing of the guard. Apparently it was the queen's birthday celebration, so we were treated to an hour-long performance by the royal band. Selections included a long Beatles medley (which was great, the whole crowd sang along) and the theme from the Incredibles. After that, we went to St. Martin in the Fields' Church for lunch at the Cafe in the Crypt--a cafeteria style lunch in a real church crypt! The food was delicious and it was certainly an interesting atmosphere. Next up was taking pictures with the lions in Trafalgar Square, and then Westminster Abbey, still my favorite part of London (and now Eric's too!). We ended the day at the National Gallery. Dinner was at a delicious fast-food place called Nando's recommended by my friend Ramya--their chicken was amazing!! Apparently they are coming to the US soon--here's hoping!

So the next morning it was off to the train station to take the Eurostar to Paris. After about two hours, we were in Gare du Nord and I felt like I was home again! We rented an apartment in Paris, the cheapest non-sketch lodging option, which was in the Latin Quarter, one of my favorite neighborhoods. We could see the Pantheon from the tiny balcony. After dropping off our things, I took Eric on a tour of the Latin Quarter: starting at Notre Dame, we saw the church and climbed the towers; then Sainte-Chapelle (Eric's favorite); then a nice walk down the Blvd Ste-Michel before dinner (I finally got to have escargots again!). We ended the day sitting in the Jardins de Luxembourg in gorgeous weather. I also enjoyed watching French TV in the evening. Day 2, I made Eric walk a lot. We started at the Arc de Triomphe, climbed up, then walked down the Champs-Elysees to the Place de la Concorde and the Tuileries. Then we did a quick Louvre visit--it was intensely crowded but we managed to see some exhibits I wanted to show him. Next, we went across the river to the Marais. We started at the Centre Pompidou, and then walked from there to the Place des Vosges while I took him on a little tour of the district, Paris' oldest neighborhood and now the Jewish/gay quarter. We finished the day on the Ile Ste-Louis at Berthillon for ice cream! After all that walking, we were exhausted, and we went home to freshen up before going to my host parents' apartment for dinner! I missed them so much and it felt so good to be in the place I used to live again! They were as kind and pleasant as always and after a few minutes my French came back with ease. After dinner and seeing some pictures of their two new grandchildren, my host dad took us on an abridged version of his famous "Paris par nuit"tour--we arrived at the Eiffel Tower just in time to see it sparkle! We were out late that night but it was worth it!

On Day 3 in Paris, we started at the Musee d'Orsay--unfortunately it's under construction so a lot of it was rearranged, but it was still beautiful. Next up was the Musee Rodin and Les Invalides, Napoleon's tomb. We kept it short so we'd have energy for Day 4, which was Versailles! Unfortunately it was INSANELY crowded and much colder than forecasted. We got all the way out into the gardens, as far from the chateau as you could be, when it started pouring rain (we hadn't brought umbrellas either). So we ran the mile back to the castle and the other half-mile to the train station, and headed back home to dry off before dinner with my old friend Orlando! He showed us around the Jussieu area of Paris, and the part of the Seine where they do salsa dancing classes! I saw some things that were even new to me, which was exciting. On our last day in Paris, we started in Montmartre, which I correctly guessed would be Eric's favorite (except for the harassment by street vendors, of course). We saw Sacre-Coeur and then wandered some of the tiny windy streets, and ate lunch at a bakery, protected by an awning while it poured again. Next up was the Opera Garnier--we got there just as a rehearsal was ending so we got to see the sets on stage! Then I got to do a little shopping on the Rue Sainte-Honore--we saw a wedding at La Madeleine before stopping at Laduree for macaroons and at the Longchamp boutique! We capped off our stay in Paris with a trip to La Tour Eiffel. My one regret about Paris in June (although the weather was gorgeous), other than the crowds of tourists, was that it doesn't get dark until almost 11 pm, and Paris is most beautiful at night, I think. So we ate dinner and then went up the Eiffel Tower to wait for sunset. We stayed until about 10:30, when it was semi-dark, to enjoy the lights, and then came down in time to see the 11 pm sparkling from Trocadero. (The Eiffel Tower sparkles at night on the hour for five minutes)

The next afternoon we arrived in Rome. It was really, really hot. London had been rainy and in the high 60s; Paris, sunshine and clouds and in the low to mid 70s. Rome was easily mid-80s, persistently sunny, and humid. I did not like that. After dropping our things at the B&B we were staying at, we spent the end of the afternoon at the Coliseum before resting up for the next day. We started Day 2 (just as hot and sunny and humid) at the Roman Forums, which Eric really enjoyed--it's all the archaeological ruins of ancient Rome. After a few hours there, we headed down the Via del Corso to see the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps. We ended the day in Trastevere, eating at La Cisterna, a place where my parents ate on their honeymoon! La Cisterna means "the well" in Italian, and it's called that because of the excavation of an underground well underneath the restaurant, which they take you on a tour of after dinner! I was proud of myself because we got directions to the restaurant in Italian and I understood them--the street is really hard to find and not on maps so we had to ask people, but we found it! We spent our final day in Vatican City: the museums and St. Peter's, then back into Rome to see the Catacombs of San Callisto and the San Giovanni in Laterano church. Vatican City was so crowded that I was getting really uncomfortable in the museums, since I'm claustrophobic. I was glad to be out. I've now been to Rome twice and don't plan to go again. The weather in summer is terrible (in my opinion) and the city is dirty, smelly, sketchy, poorly maintained, inefficient, and CROWDED. The train from Termini Station to the main airport is actually programmed to tell you how late it is upon arrival. There's a lot more of Italy I want to see, but Rome I am completely done with.

So the next day we spent all day traveling back to Konstanz. We flew from Rome to Vienna, Austria, where we had a layover before flying to Zurich and taking a train back to Konstanz. Four countries in one day. We arrived home in time for dinner in the pouring rain. The next day was a national holiday I'd had no idea about, and I had literally no food in my apartment since I'd been gone for two weeks. So we tried some restaurants in Konstanz and walked around the city a bit, but everything was closed. We had German food that night with my friends Thorin and Alessia! The next day we went grocery shopping and went to Meersburg with my language partner, Ulf. We walked around the town a bit and had some gelati! On Eric's last day here, I showed him Konstanz, since everything was open--the harbor, the funny statues, the shops, etc. We tried some Turkish food for dinner and then he got ready to leave. He started his trip back to the US a few hours ago, and now it's back to work for me!

Monday, June 6, 2011

The challenges of learning a new language

So my reasons for being in Germany are twofold: first and most ostensibly, to do research on the political culture of discrimination against Muslim immigrants in Western Europe, to the extent that I'm able at this point in my academic career. Secondly and probably more importantly at this point in said academic career, to learn German in order to further my research later on.

However, due to the fact that private language schools are insanely expensive and I arrived at the wrong time to take a language course through the university, I've been learning largely on my own. I've used two online courses (busuu.com and Deutsche Interaktiv, for anyone interested), and have added in a combination of grammar workbooks and websites, watching dubbed American TV shows, and translating Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, as well as my language exchange partner, Ulf! So essentially I'm not only teaching myself the language but designing my own curriculum. The Internet's a wonderful thing, isn't it? I don't think it would work nearly as well if I wasn't physically in Germany hearing German every time I leave my apartment, though.

I literally had no German background at all prior to arriving here--when I knew I was coming I made it a point to learn greetings and numbers, and then all of a sudden I was on a plane to a country I'd never been to where they speak a language I couldn't say ten words in. If there is one thing I hate, it's being dependent, and the second I got here I hated being dependent on other people's English-speaking abilities. So I've worked as hard as I can to make that less of an issue. It's very different from my semester abroad in Paris. I had about 7 years of background in French (even though American methods of teaching second languages are awful), I was living with a family, I was with one of my best friends, and even arriving I wasn't dependent on people speaking English--fluency happened pretty quickly and almost without me realizing it.

Here it's very different. Not only because I arrived all by myself to spend the summer working on my own with no background in the language. I feel like every day I am flooded with hundreds of new bits of information--new words or verb conjugations that I learn and immediately forget, cultural notes, ways to phrase or pronounce things. While in Paris I was shooting for big goals, like watching a movie without subtitles, or having a phone conversation, or understanding song lyrics, here I'm happy with little victories. After going to Geneva, where they speak French and I could communicate easily, I came back to Konstanz intensely frustrated. I can think in French, I can switch from French to English at a moment's notice, and I can understand what people say to me. My grammar may have a lot of mistakes but I can do very well without any assistance in a French-speaking place. Thinking of how to say things in French comes very quickly. Coming back to a place where I couldn't understand a word anyone said anymore was disheartening.

In Konstanz, I have to think of what I want to say. Then I have to break it down word by word to figure out the words I know and the words I don't know. If I'm out and about, I have to look up the words I don't know in my phrasebook. If they're not there I have to figure out another way to express what I mean. Then I have to make a guess at word ordering and verb conjugations. And if it's not in the present tense, forget it. I thought doing everything in French could be exhausting sometimes, but it's nothing compared to this. Imagine shopping for food or toiletries when you can't read anything that's on the labels. Or trying to get daily tasks like buying a bus ticket or making a deposit at the bank accomplished. Every time I leave my apartment it's difficult.

Obviously you can't become fluent in a language overnight, or in a month, or even in four months, particularly without formal instruction. So I'll just keep up what I'm doing, and in August see where I am!

With that, here's to the little victories of the past few days:
-ordering gelati in multiple flavors in a cone or a cup--kugeln im becher (scoop in a cup)!
-making a deposit at the bank in German...einzahlung (the deposit)!
-explaining to the woman waiting with me for the (very late) bus that there had been a car accident near the Konzil Theater so that was why the bus was late--der Unfall (the accident)!
-paying my rent and spelling my last name in German--bezahlen (to pay)!

hopefully there will be many more!